If you email me off "iModeler's" forum, I can send you photo's of my paint table and the desktop with a model on it being photographed.It is a database of traced logs of installed programs stored on our web site prepared and maintained by Revo Uninstaller Pro’s team. If you flatten the tires, you "MUST" scribe in the tire tread.bar none! As a local, regional and national IPMS/USA judge with over 20 years experience I helped other judges disqualify models from the winning circle because the model did not scribe in the tire treads. Your model "must" be built as good on the bottom as it is on the top. I set my models in the center of the paper and could turn them around in any direction, including upside down as a photo of the bottom of the model is very important. I used one movable light on each side of the paper with a 75 and/or 100 watt "DAYLIGHT" COMPACT FLUORESCENT BULB" in each fixture. I did the same thing when I lived in Colorado (2004-2016) For a photo booth I pined flexible 2'x3' white and other colored paper to my back shelf then rolled it down flat and taped it to my 3'圆' model working table. I did not wear a face mask, 'cause the air coming out of my mouth and nose fogged up my glasses that I wore. I never made a "spray booth" nor did I ever make a "photography-light box." I made a small wooden table and put it out in the garage when I lived in San Jose, California:(1984-2004) I kept the overhead door open during my paint spraying operation. If you ask any questions, PLEASE write your first name down and the country you live in as I don't like to answer what I call "Blank" emails. In my next story I'll show some of my model building tools. Now it's your turn to make a "vac" box and experiment making some parts. Most times I attach the w/screens with ordinary Future Floor Wax. They were mask off and the frame lines were painted on. I had to sand the insides of my windscreens and canopies and polish them with my "Blue Magic" polishing cream. I made plaster molds using ordinary household "Plaster of Paris." I applied masking tape to my clear parts so I could cut off the excess plastic. For me it was only airplane windscreens and canopies. After ruining a few pieces of plastic, you learn real fast how to take the plastic off the toaster and slam it down on you vac box that has the item on it that you want to make a part. Now what do you do next? If you leave the plastic there, bubbles will form in the plastic and holes will appear real fast and ruin the plastic. How long do you keep the frame & plastic on the toaster? As the heat comes up out of the toaster the plastic get hot and starts to sink down toward the toaster, but then it starts to come back up real fast. Now comes the "experimental" segment of vac-u-forming the special type of "K & S" plastic. I burned my fingers the first time I held the frame over the toaster, so I put a couple of aluminum bars on the toaster and set the frame on them. I made a couple of open wooden frame items to hold the vac plastic in, so I could heat them over a new 2-slice toaster.Īttach your sweeper to the box and turn it on before you start to heat the plastic. Then I placed a row of soft black stuff that I got at a local NAPA auto parts store. I could build a box 'cause I use to build houses and knew a great deal about making things out of wood.Īfter the box was made I lined the top with some aluminum screen that I bought at a local junk yard in San Jose, California. I was told to build a box and put a screen over the top and a hole in one of the side's for my household sweeper to fit into. In fact, I had no idea what "vac-u-forming" ment. In 1984 I wanted to build a 1/32 scale Corsair, but there was no kit and I had no experience in what they called "scratch-building," including "vac-u-forming" parts.
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